Monday, February 1, 2010

Layering Alliums



If I had to describe my approach to winter cooking in 2 words, they would be "layering alliums." The allium family consists of onions, garlic, leeks, shallots, chives, and their many cousins. They're abundant this time of year, partly because they're root vegetables which store their goodness safely underground, and also because they tend to have relatively long shelf lives so you can pick them in the fall and keep them for many months. I've only recently finished off an impressive stash of shallots that I got from Local Roots Farm in October, and a big bag of garlic from Summer Run Farm that I acquired at around the same time.

If you use three of four different kinds of alliums together in a dish, you often don't even need any additional seasoning. They give a comforting depth to anything you make. For example, heat some olive oil and add chopped garlic, leeks, and shallots, along with some salt and pepper. When the shallots are transluscent and the leeks start to wilt, add a chopped bunch of greens, anything from one of the wonderful varieties of kale available this time of year to mustard greens or collard greens. Cook on medium heat until the greens wilt and grow tender: anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the greens and your personal preference as far as doneness. A bit of balsamic vinegar adds an extra dimension, but it's not entirely necessary.

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