Willie Greens Makeover

The last time I visited Willie Greens farm was 4 or 5 years ago for a solstice party. I remember seeing some very young red Russian kale growing and understanding for the first time how a farmer creates a truly interesting and tasty salad mix.

I went out there again this past Monday with my friend Debra, who has a vegetarian cookbook coming out next month profiling farms in Washington and Oregon.

On the drive out there we were talking about the difficulties some established farmers have been facing due to competition from newer farms for sales and market stall space. I gave my typical perspective that new farms and new markets are a challenge and an opportunity. Businesses have to evolve in the face of changing circumstances, and if a farm is having difficulty maintaining their sales, then they probably need to try new things.

When we got to the farm Jeff showed us around the venue he's been creating to host weddings and catered dinners with the fields as backdrops. He's incorporated boulders and landscaping, and a sectioned area for ceremonies that will convert to a dance floor. There's also a lovely fountain and a mighty fire pit. Soon there will also be a Raj tent, and sunflowers shaping a border. ("People like the idea of being out on the farm," he said, "But they don't need to see the stuff growing while they're having dinner.")

His original vision had been to build a restaurant, but the permitting process was Kafkaesque. Among other things, the county required a second water source but wouldn't allow him to install one. Instead there's going to be an outdoor kitchen that can be disassembled at the end of each season. I think that'll be spectacular, and more unique than a restaurant.

One of my favorite things about self employment has always been the potential to creatively evolve, making mistakes and finding new solutions to obstacles. This project at Willie Greens was a perfect example of a fresh endeavor with beauty and vitality growing out of a series of tough challenges.