Emmer

Bluebird Grain Farms was back at the Universty and Ballard farmers' markets this past weekend. They come over from the Methow, where they grow heirloom grains such as emmer and spelt, ancestors of modern wheat.

Emmer is indgenous to the Near East, and is one of the world's oldest cultivated grains. According to Jared Diamond's book, Guns, Germs, and Steel, its suitability for agriculture was an important variable in the rise of Western civilizations. It is high in protein (13-16%), and it has a hard hull, which made it useful to early sedentary cultures because this casing made it possible for kernels to be gathered and stored. But as consumption of domesticated grains became more widespread and milling technologies evolved, hulless varieties grew more popular.

Eventually agriculturalists also began developing varieties of wheat that had a higher gluten content, and made better bread. As a result, emmer cultivation declined considerably in Europe and the United States, although it has been making a comeback in recent years.

My grandmother's maiden name was "Emmer." I'm proud to have this connection to such an important ancient food.