Extortionism and Fine Dining

1. Bob from Stonybrook Farm wrote a piece last week about how small-scale meat producers could charge a lot less for their products if they'd only scale up a bit. The Ethicurean ran the piece as well, and it received many comments from outraged readers who were disturbed by both its content and its tone. They questioned his accounting, and his daring to challenge the assumption that we should all be willing to pay more for good food because it simply costs more to produce. They also took issue with his use of the word "extortionist" to describe the producers who charge top dollar for their products.

I personally take issue with the idea that it's in our best interests to lower the price of meat, even sustainable meat, but I appreciate his commitment to defending the idea that good food just doesn't have to cost so much. I feel a similar indignation when I watch the chefs who prance around the farmers' markets in their whites, making a show of selecting the perfect ingredients to implement their artistic vision.

Sure, they're able to find customers who are willing to pay top dollar for their creations, but it seems narcissistic to me to create dishes with an eye towards showing off personal talent rather than making quality food accessible to as many people as possible. I understand that innovative chefs have been instrumental to the growth of the local, organic food movement, and many farmers have come to rely on their demand for specialty offerings. And yet I can't help feeling that it's time to change focus, especially in this unfortunate economy. Instead of setting out to create the most unique and elegant meal out of the available ingredients, I'd like to see more chefs driven by the desire to provide their customers with the best possible value.